What's in Season? Try Leeks!

We are rather spoiled here in California. Not only all this glorious weather, but the state provides nearly half of the country's fruits, vegetables, nuts, wine and dairy. We have just about everything! 

Indeed, agriculture in California is a nearly $40 billion industry that generates $100 billion in related economic activity! It's a big deal. But while we have a plethora of food grown here, let's face it: food grows everywhere. And eating the foods that grow where you live, instead of having them shipped to you from afar, is important.

Why?

There are a number of good reasons to eat more local, seasonal food:

• to reduce the energy (and associated CO2 emissions) needed to grow and transport the food we eat
• to avoid paying a premium for food that is scarcer or has travelled a long way 
• to support the local economy
• to reconnect with nature's cycles and the passing of time

But most importantly, because seasonal food is fresh, and so tends to be tastier and more nutritious.

While it's important to consider the environmental impact of our food choices - such as food miles (the distance food travels, or rather the energy consumed, getting it from place of production to our table) - it's hard to deny ourselves the pleasures of imports not widely grown in North America, such as pineapples and bananas. Plus, buying imported food can help make a much needed contribution to developing countries' economies.

But it's silly, really, to buy grapes from Chile, or lamb from New Zealand, when for many weeks or months of the year you can feast on far superior native versions, often at a lower cost financially as well as environmentally. Whenever an ingredient goes out of season, another delicious food has come back into season. It keeps things interesting, I think. Why do we really need to eat tomatoes year round? They are horribly tasteless at any time of year other than summer. This is why people used to can and preserve: they would take the bounty of summer and squirrel away their stash for the winter when less was available. The food retained its freshness and ripe taste.

Ok, so it's winter and we haven't squirreled anything away. We're city folk who don't can or preserve. What is there to eat at this time of year that we can feel good about? 

Leeks. If you haven't tried them, grab yourself a bunch next time you see them at your farmer's market or supermarket. 

Leeks are related to garlic and onions but have a much subtler, sweeter and more sophisticated flavor. They can be used to enrich soups or stews and they partner brilliantly with potato and cheese to form tasty side dishes and suppers that comfort and satisfy during fall and winter.

One of my favorite things to do with leeks is to make Potato Leek Soup. It's a very simple soup but do not underestimate it's heartiness. It is very satisfying. It can be pureed and made creamy with the addition of a little cream, it can be left chunky, you can leave it vegetarian or add bacon for a little extra zing.

Another nice thing to do with leeks is to braise them, getting a little color on them to sort of caramelize them. This really sweetens them up. They can also be grilled. 

No matter what you do with them, make sure to clean them well, as dirt can be often left behind. You'll want to cut off the end a bit at the point where the roots grow and then make a slit down the long way just about half way through and run water through it, releasing the layers one by one to loosen up any dirt that might still be hiding.

May I present: Potato Leek Soup. Make it and let it soothe your soul!

Potato Leek Soup

3 large or 6 medium leeks, finely chopped
1 1/2 lbs. boiling or baking potatoes, scrubbed well
2 Tbsp. butter
Salt and fresh ground pepper
Milk or water to thin the soup, if needed
A splash of heavy cream

Slice leeks lengthwise and slice down the long end, holding the leeks under running water to rinse out any dirt or sand, quarter the potatoes lengthwise and slice them thinly.

Melt the butter in a wide soup pot, add the leek and potatoes, and cook over low heat, covered, for about 10 minutes. Add 7 cups of water and 1 1/2 tsp. salt and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer, partially covered, until the potatoes are soft to the point of falling apart, about 30 minutes. Press a few of them against the side of the pot to break them up. If the soup is thick, you can thin it with a little milk or replace the milk with cream (highly advised). If opting for cream, add only at the very end. Taste and adjust your seasonings if needed.

That’s the basic recipe. There are countless options for how to continue. What I would do is this: instead of pressing the potatoes against the side of the pot, which is fine if you’re going to leave your soup chunky, I would transfer the soup to a blender or use an immersion blender to puree it. If using a blender, bring the soup back to the pot and then add the cream. 

Garnish with chopped chives and parsley. 

This soup can also be served chilled. In that case, it’s called vichyssoise (pronounced veeshee-swa).