Friday, August 13, 2010

Flavor Profile: Dry Rubs & Spice Blends

As next in the series, dry rubs and spice blends are my focus. Though they seem to be simply a mixture of herbs and spices, truly great combinations are a complex intermingling of flavors that add a depth to food greater than any one spice can accomplish. They can be purchased at the market pre-blended, or you can experiment and create your own from individual spices and herbs you already have at home. Dry rubs are ideally suited to grilling and are excellent on either meat, poultry, or vegetables.

Store-bought rubs are certainly easier, but according to the great chefs out there, it's far better to do this: buy the individual spices whole, toast them, grind them and then blend them yourself. I've only done this once or twice myself, and I want to do it more. These DIY creations are a far cry from the blends that have been sitting on the supermarket shelf for who knows how long, because they are fresh and bursting with flavor. It's like grinding the coffee beans right before you brew a pot instead of using pre-ground beans. There is a big difference in flavor. Great blends bring out the best in the foods they are applied to, but do not overpower them and they usually consist of flavors that are harmonious with one another.

My two favorites are a dry rub I use exclusively on grilled salmon, and the spice blend curry powder. The dry rub contains Kosher salt, Paprika, Crushed Red Pepper, Chili Pepper, Oregano, Basil & Coriander.

Another great rub for salmon, as well as meats, is this one, which has some smoky, peppery overtones: Cumin, Oregano, Chili Pepper, White Pepper, Sea Salt & Dehydrated Garlic (powder).

To use dry rubs, I first wash and pat dry the meat (or whatever I'm covering with the rub). Then I apply a light coat of olive oil onto both sides with a basting brush. Then I rub the spices on. Just like with a marinade, I allow the spices to sit on the food for at least 30 minutes, if not longer, before it goes on the grill. Though they won't penetrate very far, it does allow for the flavors to develop a bit. I'm going to get creative doing this. When I look at the ingredients in a spice blend or dry rub at the market I am always thinking, "I have these spices at home, I could make this myself". What I usually do is buy the store-bought blend, try it, and if I like it, try to replicate it.

For the spice blend I wanted to feature, Curry is my fave. I currently have 2 sorts in my spice cabinet and they definitely vary in taste (curries are not all created equal). One of them I bought at my local Indian store and contains Coriander, Turmeric, Chilli, Fenugreek, Mustard and "other spices". The Madras Curry Powder is the other one and it's really excellent. It contains (check out this list!) Coriander Seeds, Turmeric, Chillies, Salt, Cumin Seeds, Fennel Seeds, Black Pepper, Garlic, Ginger, Fenugreek, Cinnamon, Cloves, Anise and Mustard! I highly recommend this one. I bought mine at Cost Plus World Market but I think it's at most supermarkets. Clearly, recipes differ and I like to try new ones every now and again to see if I like the way they blended their spices but I usually fall back on the Madras brand.

Curry is great on so many things. I already provided a recipe (Curried Tofu Dip) in a previous post. It's excellent as a snack with either bagel chips, or veggies like celery and carrots. Curry is usually blended into sauces for chicken, meat and veggies. It can also be mixed with mayo and white wine and made into a lovely curried chicken salad, with diced celery, raisins, cashews and mango chutney. Delish!

Curry makes the house smell warm and comforting. When an Indian woman in my neighborhood cooks, I can smell the curry as I walk near her house. It's such a delicious odor as it wafts its way through our streets. Watch for a post from me soon where I share some of my favorite Indian and curry recipes.

Tuesday, August 10, 2010

Flavor Profile: Spices

Spices are next in the series of Flavor Profiles. A broad term, I know, as it covers a vast array of them, and that being the case I can only focus on a few. Since I am a huge fan of Indian cuisine, it is no surprise then that some of my favorite spices are cinnamon, ginger, cumin, and turmeric. (I left out the obvious curry powder because that is really a spice blend and I will be covering dry rubs and spice blends in my next Flavor Profile.)

Like most spices, cinnamon has been known since antiquity. The Old Testamant makes mention of the spice many times. It was so highly priced among ancient nations that it was regarded as a gift for monarchs. Cinnamon is native to Sri Lanka and was imported to Egypt as early as 2000 BC. Arab traders brought the spice via overland trade routes to Egypt, where Venetian traders held a monopoly on it until the Portuguese, Dutch and finally the British got in on it. For a long while, the origins of this spice were a mystery fierecely guarded by the spice merchants so as to protect their monopoly. Cinnamon is obtained from the inner bark of the cinnamon tree. The branches are scraped of the outer bark then beaten with a hammer to loosen the inner bark. The inner bark is then laid out in sheets and cut into strips. These strips curl into rolls (or "quills") upon drying. Cinnamon is used in Mexico for the preparation of chocolate. Though used mostly in sweets it is also found in savory dishes with chicken and lamb, particularly in the Middle East.  Persian cuisine uses cinnamon quite frequently in thick soups. In some curry mixes, it is also added. Cinnamon has been reported to be a cure for colds, aid as a blood sugar regulator for those with diabetes or other blood sugar disorders, it is an antioxidant, and an insect repellant.

Ginger is native to southern Asia and has long been a staple to Asian cuisines as well as to Caribbean Islands. It was popular during the Roman Age, but upon its collapse it all but disappeared. It was Marco Polo's trip to the Far East that brough ginger back to Europe and it was Queen Elizabeth I of England who is credited with the invention of the gingerbread man. Ginger is a tuber and its flavor also works well with either sweet or savory dishes, though most of us know it for its lively addition to savory dishes. It grows in tropical areas of the world and is therefore prevalent in the cuisines of those areas. It is well known that ginger tea can aid indigestion and treat nausea. Ginger can also be pickled, made into candy form, or used dried in teas and powdered form.

Cumin was originally cultivated in Iran and the Mediterranean region, where the Greeks kept cumin at the dining table much like we do with pepper today. This practice continues in Morocco. During the Middle Ages, cumin fell out of favor in Europe except in Spain and Malta but was introduced to the Americas by Spanish and Portuguese colonists. Superstition during the Middle Ages cited that cumin kept chickens and lovers from wandering and in Germany it was carried by both bride and groom at the wedding. In Europe cumin's cousin caraway was more commonly used and is found in everything from sauces to bread. You can find cumin in Indian, Pakistani, No. African, Midle Eastern, Sri Lankan, Cuban and northern Mexican cuisines. Cumin has a distinctive flavor and strong warm aroma which helps add an earthy and warming feeling to cooking, making it a staple in certain stews and soups, as well as curries and chili.

Turmeric is a relative to ginger and is also native to tropical regions of the world, particularly South Asia. The rhizomes of the plant are boiled for several hours and then dried in hot ovens, after which they are ground into a deep orange-yellow powder commonly used as a spice in curries, to dye fabrics and to impart color to mustard condiments. It has a distinctive earthy, slightly bitter, hot peppery flavor and mustardy smell. In medieval Europe is became known as Indian Saffron as it was used an an alternative to the more expensive saffron. Turmeric is a key ingredient for many Persian, Indian, Thai and Malay dishes. It is also used to give a yellow color to prepared mustards, canned chicken broth and other foods. It is sometimes added to rice for color. Turmeric also has many medicinal properties and is used for cuts, burns and bruises. It is antibacterial, and aids stomach problems. It is also currently being investigated for possible benefits for Alzheimer's disease, cancer, arthritis and other disorders.

Some of these spices you may already be using in your cooking. I did not use ginger, cumin or turmeric much in my early cooking years, simply because they were sort of foreign to me, and I didn't really understand how to use them. Part of the fun of cooking is experimenting. I like to buy something I've never used before and see where it takes me. The only trouble is that spices shouldn't be held onto for too long. A year seems to be the recommended length of time to keep them. Any longer than that and they really start to lose their punch and should be replaced. Here are some tips to remember about spices:

• Ground spices release their flavor more quickly than whole spices. Ground spices such as ground thyme or ground cumin can be used in recipes with short cooking times or can be added near the end of cooking for longer cooking recipes.

• Whole spices need a longer time to release their flavor. They work well in longer cooking recipes like soups and stews.

• To double a recipe, increase spices and herbs by one and one-half, TASTE and then add more if necessary. In most recipes one and one-half times the seasoning will be sufficient to provide desired flavor.

• Spices such as fennel seed, cumin seed, sesame seed and white peppercorns may be toasted to intensify their flavors. Simply add the spice to a dry, non-stick, heated skillet and heat until aromatic.

• Whole spices and seeds may be best ground using a small electric coffee grinder or spice mill. A pepper mill or mortar and pestle may also be used.

Monday, August 2, 2010

Tools of the Trade - My Favorite Gadgets

Are you a "gadget" freak? If so, your kitchen is probably brimming with tools and appliances galore, right? If you actually do use them, mostly, then you'll agree that you probably couldn't do without them. All of them serve a distinct purpose. From bowls, spatulas and measuring spoons to whisks, thermometers and food processors, the proper tool can make the cooking process easier and more enjoyable. If you're a novice cook, you may not have much but you are intrigued by them and want to accumulate more. I'll periodically cover a "gadget" that I think is important to have in a well-stocked kitchen.

But let's work on the terminology before we begin, shall we? Why call them "gadgets"? To me, the term implies the thing is frivolous. We all know better. They are tools. As any professional can tell you, tools are needed to work, whether you are a mechanic or a doctor or a woodworker. The home cook is no different. That said, my first post will be about a frivolous thing I once bought and have hardly used. Ha!

The first Tool of the Trade that I wanted to write about is the Yogurt Strainer. See, I told you - not totally necessary like a bowl or a spoon, but if you like Greek yogurt (regular yogurt with a thicker consistency, almost like a fresh cheese) as much as I do, I've got news for you: you can make it yourself for less than that expensive Greek stuff.

My Yogurt Strainer was designed for that purpose only.  It looks like a coffee filter but it's taller. It works by draining the whey (liquid) from the milk curds. If you find yourself without this "tool", fret not; a large mesh strainer lined with cheesecloth will work just as well. In fact, on one website someone left a comment about making his own Greek yogurt and his grandfather, from the old country, swore by a clean white t-shirt as a filter! Just make sure your strainer is large enough to hold the amount of yogurt you want to use and ideally has a fine mesh screen. 

You might already have a colander but that's not what I'm talking about. For yogurt, that probably won't work well because the holes are too large (unless you use a fine gauged liner such as a T-shirt or cheesecloth).

Since this post is about the strainer, let me stress its importance in the kitchen, as it can be used in any number of ways. Use it to drain cooked foods, catch citrus seeds while squeezing the fruit and it's ideal when making stocks and sauces. You can filter out the vegetables and chunky bits that have given all they've got during the simmering process, leaving behind a flavorful broth or smooth sauce.

This morning I put a whole tub of yogurt into my strainer and I'm going to let it drain while I'm at work. Usually only 3-4 hours is required. If it's too thick I can always add a little bit of the drained whey back in to thin it out but I actually like it thick. We'll see what it looks like this afternoon. It's been so long sinch I've used this thing, I can't remember. It has Graham Kerr's name on it. For those of you old enough to remember who he was, he had a cooking show back in the late 60's called "The Galloping Gourmet" and I loved watching him because he was silly and didn't take himself, or cooking, too seriously. For those of you with cable, the new Cooking Channel is showing reruns. The little recipe book that came with it has all sorts of ideas for how to use the "cheese", particularly a few  "healthy cheesecake" recipes that I plan to finally try. For now, I'm content to eat my home-made strained yogurt "as is" with a little fruit on top. Why didn't I dig this out sooner?!

I hope this will be my only post of a kitchen gadget / tool that hardly ever gets used, as I plan to make much more Greek yogurt from now on!

For a description of "Greek" style yogurts around the globe, click here. For how to make strained or Greek yogurt, click here for step-by-step directions.

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